When you are climbing in the Luberon you are in the epicenter of French rock climbing. These are the home crags of Patrick Edlinger. He climbed one of the very first 8th degree routes in Buoux. Sports climbing history is written here. He often climbed solo and became known to a wider audience through the movie “La vie au bout des doigts”. Around the Ventoux you will find 52 equipped crags. I will explain here some of the closest interesting areas.
Gorges de la Nesque distance 1,5 km
Our “home” crag. A very beautiful gorge with recently equipped routes. A climbing place where mainly locals have their projects. There is no topo of this yet, as the gorge is part of Natura 2000. You can climb here, but not in groups. Climb with respect for the environment and enjoy this piece of pure nature. At Grange Ventoux you can get information about the routes and degrees.
NUMBER OF ROUTES: 46
ORIENTATION: SOUTH EAST
LEVEL: 5B TO 8C
Combe de l’Ernitage distance 13km
A new climbing site since April 2020! At the request of the mayor of Ville sur Auzon (village next to Monieux), the Combe de L’Eritage was started in the autumn of 2019. This is a beautifully isolated side valley of the Gorges de la Nesque. The site is very easily accessible via a car park that offers plenty of shade. On the southeast flank you will find more difficult athletic routes. Here you climb on a slightly overhanging compact colored limestone rock full of pockets and micro reglets. You will find the easier routes on the southern flank. Here you climb on plates that become vertical towards the end. The massif is very well equipped, the ideal place to climb out of your comfort zone, to start your first projects!
Saint Léger du Ventoux distance 30km
In the shadow of Mont Ventoux is one of the best rock climbing areas in France. Especially in spring and autumn you can perfectly climb on the coloured overhanging solid limestone rock. The environment is beautiful. You climb into the gorges of the Toulourenc with its emerald green water: a hidden gem of nature and wonderfully quiet.
NUMBER OF ROUTES: 500
LEVEL: 6A TO 9B (but especially 7th degree routes)
Bédoin Combre Obscure distance 27km
A beautifully situated typical small valley on the south flank of the Ventoux. Beautiful slabs and straight limestone rock in the middle of the sun. A family crag with mainly 6th degree routes
NUMBER OF ROUTES: 100
LEVEL: 4A TO 7C +
MALAUCENE ROCHER DU GROSEAU distance 46km
This is the French Frankenjura! so yes, use your fingers in pockets in perfectly clean compact limestone rock. Hard-graded by French standards and difficult to climb “a vue”. Nearby you have a well and a perfect picnic area.
NUMBER OF ROUTES: 65
ORIENTATION: NORTH WEST
LEVEL: 4C to 8B
VENASQUES distance 35 km
A beautifully situated sandstone crag under a picturesque village, located between the vineyards with lots of shade. You climb on very finely layered sandstone slabs. This place reminds you of Berdorf and Fontainebleau, very easily accessible.
NUMBER OF ROUTES: 400
LEVEL: 5B TO 8A
BUOUX distance 38 km
Nicely situated in a gorge with old oak trees. Autumn is beautiful here. You climb on very compact coloured lime- and sandstone with mainly pockets and drops. A typical style, strictly quoted, old school! It could get quite busy here in the 80s and 90s. Fortunately, peace has returned!
NUMBER OF ROUTES: 500
LEVEL: 5B TO 8C
DENTELLES DE MONTMIRAIL distance 46 km
A long stretched limestone rock between the vines of Gigondas. Despite the low height, you have a real mountain feeling here. The longest climbing routes are 80 to 100 meters high. This is a real winter massif!
NUMBER OF ROUTES: 800
ORIENTATION: SOUTH AND NORTH
LEVEL: 3C to 8B
BUIS-LES-BARONNIES distance 42 km
A very easily accessible crag. There is something for everyone here. It is divided into different sectors: Ubrieux, Lou Passe, Baume Rousse, rocher Saint Julien. Here you can climb all year round. Ideal for climbing starters. NUMBER OF ROUTES: 600
LEVEL: 3A TO 8B +